Pure Joy

4-blissOne summer day when all we did was eat blackberry pie and take naps and nothing too seriously, I just felt too lazy to ride my little tater chip, so I took out that old blue single fin. Changed my life, no joke. I had so much fun I completely stopped riding any other boards. I rode that thing everywhere. I distinctly remember the shooting pains in my arm from carrying that board on a 5 hour hike in search of a good wave. My fingers just barely reached around the rail causing quite a strain. I would have strapped it to the pack, but the last time I tried that trick, the cord snapped loose and knocked my front tooth out. I still look for it every time I pass by the creek where I lost it. The waves we rode on that nerve stretching strong-arm trip were worth every bit of it though and I was just stoked to have that board out there in the some of the best surf I’d ever seen.

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