Eureka – Finding California

The Land – part 4


“We don’t want ‘you’ here. This is ‘our’ spot.”  It’s as simple as that at many places on the California coast.  This is just a part of the reality of the landscape here.  Nothing personal, in fact it’s extremely impersonal.  It really doesn’t matter who you are, all that matters is that you are not recognized as someone who belongs here, and there will always be those who will let you know about it.

He grew up just up the street and surfed out front quite a bit as a kid.  The older guys would harass folks they didn’t recognize, but they always left him alone.  He liked that.  He moved away for awhile once he turned eighteen.  A few years later he returned and went down for a session at his old homebreak.  He didn’t see any of the older crew,  must be busy with careers and wives and kids by now he figured.  Oh well.  On the way down he passed some kids at the top of the trail who nodded and said “hey wassup” under their breath.  The next generation.  A few moments later a small rock landed on the trail in front of him, followed by laughter and another rock bouncing off his board. He moved a little faster as the sky began to rain rocks.

He quickly got out of range and relaxed a bit and enjoyed his session.  The wave hadn’t changed at all.  The crowd in the water was enjoying a steady rotation in the take off zone, and he quickly joined the rotation and shared a great session with the locals, even exchanging the occasional hoot on a good set.  This was one of the better days of surf here, and he was surprised that his rock-throwing friends never made it out to the water. He was even more surprised to see them waiting for him at the top of the trail.  Had they nothing better to do? He covered his head with his board which picked up a few new dings in the now predictable rock barrage. He was mulling over just what sort of words he’d have with them when he reached the top of the trail, but as he came around the last corner they were gone.  Oh well, he figured he owed them a thanks anyway. If it weren’t for them this place would be overrun with folks from the city, and he kinda liked it better this way.

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